Èze, France
One summer day in July, Matt and I left our Airbnb in Nice, France, and caught the bus heading to Èze. Èze is a medieval village perched on a hilltop 1,400 feet above the Mediterranean Sea in the Cote d’Azur. It’s an easy day trip from any of the cities on the French Riviera.
Getting to Èze
Two bus routes will take you from Nice to Èze, the #112 and #82, though on Sundays and holidays only the #82 runs. The bus ride from Nice only takes about 30-45 minutes and it’s a real doozy, winding up several hairpin turns in the cliffs. Our bus was so crowded that we had to stand the whole time, which made me a bit dizzy as we rounded some of those cliffside corners going at high speed. If you can manage, though, take a look out the window as you climb: the yachts and people on the beachside below grow smaller and smaller and the vast blue of the Mediterranean begins to stretch out before you.
The entrance to historic Èze is just a short walk from the bus stop and includes a visitor’s center and some other shops. Here, begin your walk up the medieval stone steps of the village.
A History of Èze
The village of Èze owes its history to the ancient Phoenicians who came to this land to build a temple to their goddess, Isis. Later, in medieval times, Èze was occupied not only by the Romans but also by the Moors, who were later driven out by William of Florence.
In the 1700s, King Louis XIV destroyed the walls surrounding the city in the war of the Spanish succession. In April 1860, Èze was finally declared a part of France. Today, it is known as the “Eagle’s Nest” of the Mediterranean because of its height over the Mediterranean.
Jardin Exotique d’Èze
Èze is a place for wandering and getting lost. We spent our whole day peeking through narrow stone arches, popping into artisan shops, perfumeries, and galleries, eating banana splits on a terrace, and wandering around the gardens.
Let the cobblestone streets lead you and make sure to look up at the bougainvillea-wrapped houses and wander inside the ochre-colored Notre Dame de l’Assumption. According to legend, the Phoenicians built a temple in this place to honor the goddess Isis. The church still holds the Egyptian cross today.
If you visit Èze, do not skip the Jardin Exotique d’Èze, a garden built on the ruins of an ancient castle. It costs about 6 euro to enter but it’s an experience you’ll carry with you the rest of your life.
Perched on top of the village, the garden has exquisite views of the Mediterranean Sea and hillside below. Statues of goddesses such as Isis stand guard over the cacti and other plants who make their home in this semi-arid climate.
We marveled at the striking contrast between the greens and pinks of the plant life, the yellow-and-orange-tinged tile roofs, and the azure blue of the sea beneath. From one of the observation platforms, you can just make out the island of Corsica.
Skip Monaco and visit Èze for its tranquility, medieval beauty, and perfumed flowers. If you’re keen to stay in the village, there are several hotels that offer accommodation, including the luxurious Chateau Eza and its Michelin-starred restaurant, where we ate banana splits.
