A Weekend Guide to Palm Springs, California

Palm Springs is the relaxing, trendy desert oasis to its much louder, much more overwhelming SoCal neighbor, Los Angeles. Where the car-laden megalopolis of L.A. offers excitement, Hollywood, and shopping, Palm Springs provides a more regenerative, low-key pace. From the white-washed walls of the mid-century modern home you’re renting for the weekend, gaze up at a lofty palm tree casting shadows over your saltwater pool and thank God you aren’t in L.A.

Don’t let me distract you–Palm Springs is known for more than just being the antidote to its western neighbor. Situated in the Coachella Valley about a hundred miles from California’s arid coastline, it’s a popular retirement destination: during the winter months, the city’s population nearly triples.

Below, I’ve included a list of my top recommendations for spending a weekend here.

But First, A Bit of History

This desert city is famous for the mid-century modern homes and architecture that fill its neighborhoods. In the 1900s, Palm Springs became a fashionable resort due to its dry climate perfected by Mount San Jacinto, which keeps the area in shadow during the summer and blocks cold winds in the winter.

The area quickly began to attract Hollywood movie stars in the 1930s, and many celebrities started building estates in neighborhoods with names such as Movie Colony, Las Palmas, and Tahquitz River Estates.

These famous stars soon began commissioning architects to build in the “Desert Modern” style that quickly became the standard for Palm Springs planning: glass-and-steel houses, boulder-strewn landscapes, spacious windows, open-design plans, and swimming pools.

I visited Palm Springs on an early February trip with my dad when I was still in law school. He rented a beautiful mid-century home in the middle of Ruth Hardy Park and I spent the first night of my stay marveling at its architecture.

How to spend a weekend in Palm Springs:

TAKE A TRAM RIDE

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway takes visitors on a ride up the Coachella Valley. At the top, enjoy the views, enjoy the restaurant and shops, or take a hike in the San Jacinto Mountains. Unfortunately, I’ve never gotten to ride this particular gondola, but I did snap this killer shot of the mountains from the airplane.

SEE THE MID-CENTURY ARCHITECTURE

Rent an Airbnb or walk around the neighborhoods. Pay a visit to Las Palmas, which harbors the house where Elvis and Priscilla Presley honeymooned; check out Frank Sinatra’s home, Twin Palms; and give special attention to the Kaufmann House, designed by Richard Neutra in 1946 and today known as the epitome of desert modernism in the U.S.

Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms

TAKE A HIKE…

Palm Springs offers more than 100 hiking trails. A leisurely two miles will take you up the Andreas Canyon Trail through Indian tribal grounds, while nearby Joshua Tree presents several more arduous options.

… AND VISIT JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK

Just under an hour north of Palm Springs sits the famous Joshua Tree National Park. The park’s dozens of hiking trails escort you through the Mojave desert.

EAT BRUNCH AT THE PARKER HOTEL

This 14-acre resort has been a desert hot spot for celebrities and the like since the 1960s. The hotel features modern rooms with open terraces, saline pools, and winding garden walkways. The rooms and decor are a mix of bright, fruity colors: citron, fuchsia, violet, lime. During our visit, we had brunch on the patio at Norma’s, treating ourselves to mango smoothies and Eggs Benedict.

VISIT AN ART MUSEUM

Founded in 1938, the Palm Springs Art Museum includes an extensive permanent collection of western, contemporary, and glass artists. The museum is open from 10am-5pm during the summer and closed on Wednesdays. On Thursdays from 12pm-8pm, the museum offers free admission.

WINDOW SHOP ALONG PALM CANYON DRIVE

There are plenty of shops, restaurants, and galleries along this strip to keep your attention, but I’ll draw your eye to one shop in particular: The Michael Weems Collection. For over 20 years, Michael has been creating unique artwork from a variety of mediums. One of my favorite pieces in my home is the porcelain tray we bought from his store several years ago–a black and white rendition of Frank Sinatra’s house.