Seaside, Florida

When I was a little girl, Seaside, Florida was a dreamy, magical world full of colorful houses, sandy pathways that darted into hidden green groves, and warm, aquamarine waters perfect for body surfing.

Every now and then in my adult life, I have been lucky enough to revisit this special sanctum, but this past December, I saw a rare opportunity: Matt and I were going to be in Florida’s Panhandle for New Year’s Eve, and Seaside was just a quick drive west. We could make a day trip for his 27^th birthday on December 30!

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So we did. During the car ride to Seaside, I had to refrain from telling Matt too many childhood stories. I wanted him to feel the magic himself!

Traveling somewhere you loved as a child has an odd effect on the adult mind: it’s a bit like being in a dream, where visions and memories swirl around you at every turn, sometimes blurring into reality.

 The weather was mild when we arrived at Seaside early in the morning. Seaside is a relatively young town, founded in the 1980s. In my mind’s eye, informed by my childhood, Seaside is an endless maze of streets, walkways, and hidden parks. As an adult, I happily realized that the town is actually pretty small. There is one main highway, 30A, which bifurcates the main square from the beachside cafes and shops. Behind the square, brightly decorated houses with quirky names radiate out into a quaint, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood.

Upon our arrival, we began at the beachside, taking a stroll to the most famous of Seaside’s seven pavilions, all of which were designed by different architects. Standing at the top of the pavilion, we gazed down at the powdery white sand, yellow-gold dunes, and blue ocean below.

The beach was fairly empty save for a game of Frisbee, and we walked along the shore for a while. I even convinced Matt, a self-described “sand-hater,” to take his shoes off!

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After that, we wandered, zigzagging our way through an outdoor shopping market and picking up a pair of sandals for me.

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When the sun started to rise higher in the sky, we settled into chairs outside of Pickles, a food truck, and enjoyed huge slices of (you guessed it) fried pickles.

After that, it was only natural to stroll across the road to the main square to pick up some soft serve at Dawson’s Yogurt, a place that taught me to love kahlua ice cream.

From there, we made our way to Seaside’s neighborhood bookstore (where my parents probably bought dozens of Pony Pals books for me in the ’90s): Sundog Books. We spent the better part of an hour there, thumbing through different titles and finally settling on a 2019 New Zealand Travel calendar (and I felt endlessly guilty for not buying a book!)

We then lazed our way into the neighborhood, popping into art galleries and clothing stores and admiring the pastel blue, purple, yellow, and pink homes that framed our walking path.

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Kids on bicycles sped by and a Sunday church service was just letting out.

For a mid-afternoon snack, I dragged Matt up the steep flight of stairs to the rooftop bar of Bud & Alley’s. If you’ve been to or heard of Seaside, it’s likely you’ve come across this restaurant. In the bottom floor, guests can enjoy an indoor ocean view safe from the elements; if you travel to the top, you’ll find a rowdier crowd and an outdoor deck that faces the water.

We found a seat at one of the tables and ordered drinks while we watched someone perform maintenance on the pavilion–which provided fascinating, if unexpected, entertainment. The sun started to sink below the horizon and the weather turned chilly, so we hopped in the car to explore the area at night.

After that, it was time for dinner. To celebrate Matt’s birthday, we grabbed a table at The Great Southern, where we enjoyed shrimp and grits, key lime pie, cocktails, and lots of fried okra.

As both an adult and a child, Seaside is a magical place, and I imagine that it always will be. Right now, I’m thankful to have gotten to share it with Matt and I hope we’ll be lucky enough to return someday.