Bergen, Norway
In my most recent blog post, I mentioned that Bergen is a fairytale city. And it absolutely is–but it’s also a fishy city, a rainy city, a historic city, and a colorful city. Matt and I visited in June 2019 halfway through our summer trip to Norway, and here are our top things to see and do in Bergen (plus some advice):
Bryggen
This historic Hanseatic wharf with bright, colorful buildings is so special and unique that I dedicated an entire blog post to it. Read about it here!
Torget Fish Market
Sitting just across the street from Bryggen is Torget, Bergen’s colorful fish market, which practically bursts with activity. People from all over the world come to experience it: we heard every different language possible being thrown around during the buying and selling of fish.
Among the items offered were crab, lobster, salmon, prawn, and whale (to be clear: I’m not a proponent of the whaling industry and we didn’t partake, but we do respect that this is part of Norwegian culture). An essential Norwegian “treat” is the dried salted cod, a hearkening-back to the medieval trading days of the Hanseatic merchants.
We grabbed a prawn sandwich and listened to the same vendor parlay vibrantly with various groups in Spanish, English, Norwegian, and French. The facility with language that we witnessed the Norwegians demonstrate during our trip was truly outstanding.
Everyone we ran across spoke perfect English along with their native Norwegian, and most had several other languages in their toolboxes. The fish market was the perfect place to see this on display.
Mount Fløyen
For our next adventure, we hopped aboard the Floibanen funicular for a steep, quick ride up to the top of Mount Fløyen, which sits one thousand feet over the city.
The view from the top is the best in the city: you can see the surrounding fjords, waterways, and islands.
We were surprised to also find a small herd of goats wandering around at the top.
After we posed for a few photos with them, we made our way onto a hiking path that led us to a big lake. It is possible to hike up to and down from the mountain without paying for the funicular, although I have it on good authority that it can take up to an hour to make the steep, uphill climb. The downside of taking the funicular for us was that we waited for almost an hour to ride it up the mountain, saving us only the hassle of trekking in the rain. The funicular costs about $10/person.
My advice? Ride the funicular up and trek back down! And if you take a break at the café at the top, be sure to grab the lefse, which is a traditional Dutch pastry.
Secrets of the City
I can’t take credit for the secret I’m about to share with you—I learned it from another blogger! But if you want a unique view of the city from above, wander to the end of the harbor to the Clarion Collections Hotel.
Go to the front desk and politely tell them “I’ve heard your rooftop has a great view of the city—could I please check it out?” The receptionist at the front desk very kindly smiled at us and presented us with a key to use in the elevator to access the rooftop. After exiting the elevator, we then climbed a flight of stairs up to the roof for a view of the city that immediately became my favorite.
(Warning: you have to be bold! Matt and I kept daring each other to ask the receptionist for the key, as we were very nervous that she’d turn us down. So silly of us–she couldn’t have been nicer about our request. It must be one of Bergen’s best-kept secrets.)
Travel Tips for Visiting Bergen
Where to Eat
Bergen just smells like bread. Bread is everywhere, in all forms and permutations, and the scent of it wafts through the city so pleasantly and perfectly. When we stood at the top of the Clarion Collections Hotel and looked down at the city, I swear I could smell freshly-baked cinnamon rolls more strongly than fish from the harbor. It gives the city such a warm, inviting feel. I am convinced that from now on, when I smell cinnamon rolls, I will think of Bergen.
Be sure to try Bergen’s famous skyllingsboller, or cinnamon bun, from one of the cafes at Bryggen. If you venture to the top of Mount Fløyen, grab a cup of tea and a packet of lefse, which is a traditional soft Norwegian flatbread made with potatoes. Matt and I thought it tasted very much like a sweet tortilla.
For seafood, the fish market is an obvious choice. If you fancy a coffee and ice cream, I suggest you visit Kaffelade Matbørsen, which sits directly across from the fish market and offers great views and warm respites from rain storms.
Getting Around
Matt and I visited Bergen on a seven-hour train trip from Oslo, Norway’s capital city. The scenic train is itself an experience–it is consistently named one of the most beautiful train rides in the world. I recommend starting your journey either from Bergen or Oslo and making pit stops along the way, in Myrdal, Flåm, and Voss (more about that in a later post). The train leaves Oslo S Central Station several times a day in the summer and costs about $40/person for an economy seat. Book in advance if you’re traveling during busy season (mid June-early September), and check Vy (formerly NSB) for timetables.
Bergen is connected to tons of cities internationally and domestically via air travel. Its airport was one of the cleanest, newest, and nicest we’d ever seen–the domestic terminal was equipped with indoor children’s playgrounds, plenty of charging stations, and fishy, healthy food options. We flew from Bergen to Ålesund on a late-night flight via SAS (Scandinavian Air) and had a really nice experience.
A sign to greet you at the airport
The airport is connected to the city via Bergen’s immaculate and efficient light rail. The light rail is very user-friendly because it only has two directions–there and back–and it was pretty cheap (I think we paid $6/person).
The light rail begins in the city center and its last stop is the airport (lufthavn). Make sure to download the Bergen light rail app, Skyss, if you plan to take a ride. More information here. Many of the self-service machines at the light rail stop did not work and we had to buy our tickets online after we boarded the train.
Bergen is a walkable city and I highly recommend exploring it on foot. Check out the neighborhoods and university area south of the harbor; walk around the KODE Art Galleries surrounding the Music Pavilion Park; enjoy the harbor views at the very easternmost point on the wharf, at Bergenhus Festning Fortress.
Most of the major tourist attractions are within 5 minutes of each other. For attractions outside the city such as Edvard Grieg’s home or the Fantoft Stave Church, the light rail or bus will transport you.
Where to Stay
We highly recommend the Hotel Oleanna. It’s a very new and modern boutique hotel whose 97 rooms are inspired by Bergen’s famous violinist, Ole Bull. Our stay included a very satisfying buffet breakfast every morning–eggs, meats, veggies, breads, jams, cereals, yogurts, juices, smoothies, and cheeses of every variety can be yours if you stay. The hotel is centrally located just 3 minutes’ walking from the light rail, train station, and fish market.
A sampling of the decorations at our hotel 
Final Thoughts
Bergen is extraordinary. It will teach you about Norwegian culture, food, and history. It will give you incredible colors, fresh fish, and new adventures. It is also a rainy, rainy place. Sandwiched as it is between the Atlantic Ocean and Norway’s western fjords, it rains almost every day in Bergen. Bring a raincoat! Wear layers. Consider even your rain boots. And even though you may get drenched as you wait in line for the funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen, don’t curse the weather–it’s all part of the beautiful Bergen experience!
