From Oslo to Bergen via Flåm
If you’ve done any research on your upcoming trip to Norway, you’ve likely run across something called “Norway in a Nutshell.” In a nutshell (ha!), this “tour” takes passengers from Oslo to Bergen via train, ferry, and bus rides. Don’t be confused–this isn’t an actual tour company or a guided expedition. Rather, it’s a nicely packaged, prepared, and precisely scheduled itinerary to take you from Oslo to Bergen (or vice versa) via the western fjords.
Matt and I knew we wanted to take the famous 6-hour train ride from Oslo to Bergen during our summer trip to Norway. After some research, we learned that Norway in a Nutshell would get us from Oslo to Bergen on this train, but it would add several incredible stops along the way. The best part? The entire tour only took one day.
The proposed schedule goes like this:
Oslo — Myrdal — Flåm — Gudvangen –Voss — Bergen
After doing some research, however, I learned that the biggest complaint with booking Norway in a Nutshell is the crowds. The schedule takes massive groups along the same path at the same times of day. That’s a lot of people on your train rides, boat tours, and buses. I started to realize that I could book the exact same trip and detours on my own (à la carte style), selecting off-times to visit. This not only saves more money and gives you greater flexibility, but it also avoids those pesky crowds. I determined that using an alternative schedule, this tour would only extend our trip by another day. What’s one extra day in a tiny fjord village if you’re beating out most of the crowds?
My recommendation? You don’t need to book Norway in a Nutshell through the company or pay extra money in convenience and booking fees. Do what we did and DIY this tour! All it requires it a little bit of savvy and the ability to read a Norwegian train timetable (This is easier than it sounds, trust me).
The DIY Norway in a Nutshell Route
Norway in a Nutshell takes you from Bergen to Oslo, or vice versa. So, your first step in booking is deciding which direction you’re coming from.
A Sample Itinerary
For a trip during the summer high season (June 2019), here is the exact schedule we followed, including train departure times. Follow this link for Vy, Norway’s train ticket schedule and timetables.
- Depart on the train from Oslo Sentralstasjon, headed towards Bergen, at 12:03 p.m.
- Arrive in Myrdal at 3:47 p.m.
- At 5:15 p.m., transfer to the scenic train from Myrdal to Flåm via the Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana).
- Spend the night in Flåm.
- The next morning, take a one-way fjord cruise through the Naerøyfjord from Flåm to Gudvangen, leaving at 9:00 a.m., arriving in Gudvangen at 11:00 a.m.
- At Gudvangen, board the bus leaving for Voss. *This is the only leg of the journey you cannot book online. However, not to worry: there are plenty of buses going out, as they wait for the fjord cruises to disembark. We waited about 30 minutes at the ferry dock for the bus. At the time of writing (December 2019), the bus only accepted cash. The bus will drop you off at the train station in Voss.
- At Voss, take the train to Bergen to complete the journey. Our train departed at 12:36 p.m from the Voss station. The train ride to Bergen is less than two hours. *Pro tip: if you have a little extra time between your bus and train rides, as we did, take a walk into Voss to see the Voss Stave Church.
Voss Stave Church 
If you’re coming from Bergen, just do the same thing, but backwards!
In Depth
Train from Oslo to Myrdal
From Oslo Sentralstasjon, take the train headed towards Bergen. It’s a four-hour journey to your first stop in Myrdal. If you’re headed in this direction, sit on the left side of the train for the best views! If you’re unable to do this, don’t fret. Take a visit up to the cafe car, order a coffee, and enjoy the view out the window from one of the many dining areas there.
Even in the summertime, there was tons and tons of snow and ice as we climbed higher into the mountains in Myrdal. Bring a jacket, and above all–order the cheesecake for dessert!!
Train from Myrdal to Flåm
One of the benefits of making pit stops in between your trip from Oslo to Bergen is experiencing things such as Norway’s most beautiful train journey on the Flåm Railway. Going one direction (from Myrdal to Flåm), the train ride takes about 40 minutes, and makes a stop at a waterfall, where you can get out and feel the mist on your face.
Camping in Flåm
Flåm was one of the most unexpectedly amazing things we saw in Norway. When we decided to detour from the typical schedule of Norway in a Nutshell, we knew we would need to sleep in Flåm at night. Flåm is so small that it only has a handful of “campsites” to stay in.
We chose Flåm Hotel, which offers individual cabins that feature bunk beds and communal showers. It was the closest we’d gotten to “roughing it” in a long time. Unexpectedly, we loved it.
The cabin was right by the fjord. Since the sun doesn’t set until about 11 p.m. in the summer, we got to look out from our bunk beds at the beautiful surroundings and enjoy the scenery.
It was also so quiet, apart from the occasional horn from the itinerant cruise ships coming in and out of the port.
Fjord Cruise from Flåm to Gudvangen
To our happy surprise, this cruise was one of the greatest experiences we’ve had on any trip so far. This immaculate fjord ship takes you on a two-hour journey through the beautiful Naerøyfjord. On board, there are tons of sheltered, indoor seats below deck with expansive windows if the wind is too cold on deck. I spent the entire journey running up and down the sides of the boat to get pictures.
Gudvangen to Voss Via Bus
As I mentioned, once you depart the boat at Gudvangen, simply stay at the port to wait for your bus to Voss. The bus will be nearly impossible to miss–they run quite frequently and line up outside the port-side gift shop. We found a list of the bus timetables posted on a telephone pole right beside the store.
And allow me to end all confusion here. This isn’t your average bus ride, shuttling you from one destination to the next. Rather, it’s a sightseeing bus, whether you want it to be or not. This means that rather than taking the direct route, it takes the longer scenic route. It’s extremely beautiful, slightly scary, and mostly informative. If you’re afraid of heights…just don’t look out the window for the first part of the drive!
Finally, end your journey with the train ride into Bergen. Let me know if you do a DIY-version of Norway in a Nutshell! I’d love to hear about your experiences.
