Geirangerfjord
This fjord is surrounded by some of the steepest mountains on the entire west coast. It is very narrow and has no habitable shore area, for the precipitous heights rise in sheer and rugged strata almost straight out of the water. Foaming waterfalls plunge into the fjord from jagged peaks. There are, however, a few mountain farms here, and of these one or two have such hazardous access, by paths that wind around steep precipices, and by bridges that are fixed to the mountain with iron bolts and rings, that they bear witness in a most striking way to the remarkable powers of invention which the challenges of nature have developed in man.
Magdalene Thorensen, mother-in-law to Norwegian playwright Henrick Ibsen
Perhaps we will never again see anything as beautiful as the Geirangerfjord. We visited this UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2019 on a road trip through western Norway.
Geirangerfjord is the most famous fjord in Norway: countless travel guides have called it one of the most beautiful places in the entire world. The fjord, which consists of a 9 mile branch of the larger Storfjorden, sits in the Sunnmøre region. The tiny town of Geiranger lies at the northern base of the fjord; at its southern point, you will find the town of Hellesylt. Together, these two towns make up the starting and ending points of “the world’s most celebrated car ferry,” the Geiranger-Hellesylt ferry.
During summer months, the car ferry runs every hour from each town, and is open to vehicles and foot traffic. On our trip, we spent one night and one day in Geiranger, exploring the fjord on foot and via the car ferry.
Dalsnibba Viewpoint
We arrived in Geiranger in the afternoon, fresh off our excursion through the Romsdal Valley and the dramatic mountain road of Trollstigen. As we approached from the north on Route 63, we reached Geirangerfjord’s first point of interest: Dalsnibba Viewpoint, also called the Geiranger Skywalk. The viewpoint sits 4,900 feet above sea level and offers your first sweeping views of the fjord. It is, quite possibly, this world’s most exquisite view.
The viewpoint is impossible to miss, as there is a toll road right before the entrance. It accepts NOK coins and cards. Due to weather conditions, the toll road is only open in warmer months, from around mid-May to mid-October. We could have spent hours up here. It was fascinating to see the cruise ships slicing through the still waters of the fjord. This was one of the best places to really get a sense for how massive the area is. It was also a good place to reflect on the darker side of the Geirangerfjord . . . .
An Impending Natural Disaster
Tafjord Disaster
In 1934, in nearby Tafjord, a rock face collapsed into the Sunnmøre fjord, causing a tsunami that wiped out the entire village, killing 40 people. Today, scars from the landslide are still visible. Like Tafjord, the village of Geiranger is very, very small, although on any given day, it might seem bustling with activity. Only 293 people actually live here, however; the rest are simply itinerants and tourists. Very few have settled along the shores of the Geirangerfjord. As idyllic as this wild landscape may seem, it poses a serious threat to surrounding towns.
Today’s Threat in Geirangerfjord
Surprisingly, the land-locked Geirangerfjord is past due for a similar tsunami. The glacial waters of the fjord are surrounded by high, green mountains comprised of dense rock. The bordering mountain Åknesfjället poses a constant threat to the fjord because it is quickly eroding. A crevice that runs 1,000 feet deep and 900 feet long lies along the mountainside, producing rock falls and minor earthquakes along the region.
The crevice deepens each year, and soon, it is expected to collapse into the fjord, throwing 50 million cubic meters of stone into the fjord. A massive tsunami will emerge from this type of rockfall. As the walls of the fjord narrow in on this wave, they will force it through the valley into the towns of Geiranger and Hellesylt. Simulations performed at the Norwegian University of Science and Technology show that the wave can race through the fjords at 248 mph. In Hellesylt, the wave has been calculated to reach 278 feet; in Geiranger, 229 feet.
As a result, Åknesfjället is the most closely monitored mountain in the entire world. Residents and tourists will likely have a 72-hour advance warning to evacuate.
Vesterås Farm
Even these somber stories couldn’t lessen our enthusiasm for exploring Geirangerfjord. We spent the night at Hotell Geiranger, which offers a full dining area and historic rooms overlooking the fjord. The hotel sits high up on the mountain overlooking the fjord and it’s about a 10 minute drive from the city center. Alternatively, it is possible to hike down into the village.
On our first afternoon in Geiranger, we spent the evening exploring the shops and cafes in the village. The village, frankly, is a bit of a tourist trap; however, it offers a handful of good eateries, a local chocolate shop, and plenty of souvenirs. Our favorite part of the village was sitting on picnic tables by the fjord and watching the cruise ships wander in and out.
The next morning, we pulled on our hiking boots and took a stroll up the road from our hotel to a famous lookout point, Flydalsjuvet. Here, you can step out onto the rocks that hang off the cliff and get a panoramic view of the fjord. Many tourists come here to step out onto Flydalsjuvet, which is the “rock” that you’ll see on tons of postcards in Geiranger. The rock is protected by a fence and climbing the fence to sit on the rock is prohibited. Because of how unsafe this is, I do not recommend trying to get that postcard view. Instagram isn’t worth your life!
Afterwards, we drove from our hotel to the Vesterås Farm. The lush hillsides of the fjord are dotted with deserted and historic farms that make for perfect day hikes with unique views of the fjord. We opted for the Vesterås Farm hike because it was one of the shortest and easiest of the options. Our GPS took us right to the parking lot and we preceded along a gravel pathway.
After passing through the farm buildings, we had to open a gate to enter onto the farm. If you take this trek, make sure to close the gate back to keep the animals inside.
There were plenty of goats and llamas greeting us as we walked by!
The hike was idyllic and the pathway was easy to follow. At the beginning, we trekked across an exposed, windy hillside with llamas on our tail until we reached a copse of trees.
A path through birch woods led us down into the hillside for a secluded lookout over the fjord. From here, we could spot Geirangerfjord’s famous Seven Sisters Waterfall.
Pro tip: If you spend any amount of time in Norway during the summer, know that you’ll need to dress for all four seasons in one day. On the day we hiked to the farm, the morning started off cold and drizzly, and we were properly bundled in warm jackets, boots, and ear muffs. About an hour into our hike, the sun came out and it warmed up quickly! We were shedding layers like we were at the beach. My thoughts? Bring a backpack and fill it with a raincoat, a light jacket, and perhaps something to keep your ears warm from those breezy glacial gusts.
The World’s Most Celebrated Car Ferry
After lunch in town, we got in line for the car ferry leaving for Hellesylt. Although we bought tickets for the 2pm ferry, cars started lining up as early as 1pm. After we boarded and parked our car, we headed up to the top deck for optimal views. Don’t worry like I did; there’s no need to “choose your side” for the ferry. In other words, you’re free to walk around and explore from every angle. Even so, this ferry was quite busy.
As I mentioned earlier, one of the main reasons why people visit Geirangerfjord is to see the Seven Sisters Waterfall. The waterfall cascades from a height of 1,350 feet, branching into seven separate streams. It sits directly across from the abandoned Skageflå farm, which is a great option for a more challenging hike than Vesterås.
Across the fjord from Seven Sisters lies another waterfall, The Suitor. Legend has it that the suitor is always trying to win the love of the seven sisters, who dance playfully down the mountainside for him. While the cruise will take you quite close to the sisters, one of the best views is from the very back of the boat. From there, you can get a panoramic view of the two waterfalls playing across from each other.
At the end of the fjord, you are free to disembark at Hellesylt and continue on your journey, or you have the option of taking the boat back to Geiranger for a round-trip excursion (if you have paid for that).
In total, a one-way trip lasts about 1 hour and costs about $30/person. Afterwards, we drove our car off the ferry in Hellesylt and continued on our journey south to Loen.
